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oryp10: Repairs page
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src/models/oryp10/README.md

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- [Internal Overview](./internal-overview.md)
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- [Parts & Repairs](./repairs.md)
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![Oryx Pro](./img/oryp9.webp)
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![Oryx Pro](./img/oryp10.webp)
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The System76 Oryx Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:
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- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 Ti (Max-Q)
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- TGP: 80W
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- eDP display options:
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- 15.6" 3840x2160@60Hz OLED
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- OLED panel: Samsung ATNA56WR14-0 (or equivalent)
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- 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
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- LCD panel: BOE NV156FHM-NY5 (or equivalent)
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- 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
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- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
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- 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
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- Memory
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- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
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- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 4800 MHz
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- Networking
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- Gigabit Ethernet
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- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
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- 230W (20.0V, 11.5A) DC-in port
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- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
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- Included AC adapter: Lite-On PA-1231-26
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- AC power cord type: IEC C13
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- AC power cord type: IEC C5
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- 80Wh 6-cell battery
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- Sound
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- Internal speakers & microphone
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- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
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- 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
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- Dimensions
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- 15": 35.814cm x 24.003cm x 2.489cm, 1.99kg
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- 17": 39.599cm x 26.213cm x 2.489cm, 2.3kg
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- 15": 35.814cm x 24.003cm x 2.489cm, 2.4kg
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- 17": 39.599cm x 26.213cm x 2.489cm, 2.8kg

src/models/oryp10/img/battery.webp

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src/models/oryp10/repairs.md

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# Oryx Pro (Parts & Repairs)
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Many components in your Oryx Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the 17" model, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details are the same on the 15" model unless otherwise noted.
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Many components in your Oryx Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the 15" model, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details are the same on the 17" model unless otherwise noted.
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- [Removing the bottom cover](#removing-the-bottom-cover)
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- [Replacing the RAM](#replacing-the-ram)
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## Replacing the RAM:
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The Oryx Pro 9 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
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The Oryx Pro 10 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 4800MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
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**Tools required:** Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
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**Time estimate:** 10 minutes
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### Steps to replace the battery:
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1. Follow the steps above to [remove the bottom cover](#removing-the-bottom-cover).
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2. Remove the three silver battery screws along the top of the battery.
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2. Remove the two silver battery screws along the bottom of the battery.
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![Battery screws](./img/battery.webp)
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3. Unplug the white connector (highlighted yellow above) connecting the battery to the motherboard.
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4. Remove the battery, starting from the top edge with screw holes.
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5. When putting in the new battery, start with the plastic tabs along the bottom edge (opposite from the screw holes.)
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4. Remove the battery, starting from the bottom edge with screw holes.
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5. When putting in the new battery, start with the plastic tabs along the top edge (opposite from the screw holes.)
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6. When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the left, and the black wire goes on the right.
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## Replacing the wireless card:
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If the CPU/GPU fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan.
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The Oryx Pro 9 comes with heat-conductive metal on the dedicated GPU die and the main CPU die, and uses regular thermal paste for the integrated GPU die. These materials help facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment.
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The Oryx Pro 10 comes with heat-conductive metal on the dedicated GPU, and uses regular thermal paste for the CPU. These materials help facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment.
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- Thermal paste should generally be replaced after removing the heatsink; thermal paste also dries over time, so depending on your climate and the age of the machine, applying new thermal paste may increase thermal performance.
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- The heat-conductive metal does not dry out, and replacing it is optional; replacement may be useful if the previous metal has flowed out of the proper area for cooling.
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4. If there is any clear tape securing the heatsink/fans or the fan wires, remove it.
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5. Unplug the two white fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted red above).
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6. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
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7. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the integrated CPU die, the border of the CPU chip, the CPU heatsink, the border of the GPU die, and the GPU heatsink.
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7. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the CPU, the CPU heatsink, the border of the GPU die, and the GPU heatsink.
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- A small amount of rubbing alcohol can be used if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
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- The heat-conductive metal may have some holes where pieces stuck to the die or heatsink.
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- If you are not replacing the heat-conductive metal, do not pick or wipe the heat-conductive metal off of the main CPU die or the GPU heatsink.
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- If you are not replacing the heat-conductive metal, do not pick or wipe the heat-conductive metal off of the GPU heatsink.
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![Thermal paste removal](./img/thermal-paste-removal.webp)
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8. If you are replacing the heat-conductive metal, remove the plastic covers from the GPU heatsink and the CPU chip.
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- A fingernail or a thin plastic tool can be used to pick a side of the plastic cover up from the CPU chip/GPU heatsink.
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8. If you are replacing the heat-conductive metal, remove the plastic cover from the GPU heatsink.
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- A fingernail or a thin plastic tool can be used to pick a side of the plastic cover up from the GPU heatsink.
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- **Warning:** The heat-conductive metal is electrically conductive. Be careful not to get specks of heat-conductive metal onto the motherboard. The heat-conductive metal can cause the motherboard to malfunction or fail if it makes contact.
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- After removing the plastic covers, wipe away any remaining heat-conductive metal residue from the heatsink, dedicated GPU die, and main CPU die.
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- Some adhesive residue may remain on the GPU heatsink and CPU chip.
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- After removing the plastic covers, wipe away any remaining heat-conductive metal residue from the heatsink and GPU.
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- Some adhesive residue may remain on the GPU heatsink.
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![Heat-conductive metal removal](./img/heat-conductive-metal-removal.webp)
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9. Apply the new heat-conductive metal to the CPU chip and the GPU heatsink, matching the orientation of the plastic coverings with the diagonal corners of their respective surfaces.
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9. Apply the new heat-conductive metal to the GPU heatsink, matching the orientation of the plastic covering with the diagonal corner of its respective surface.
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- **Warning:** Replacement heat-conductive metal obtained from System76 will include the plastic covering. If you are applying third-party heat-conductive or liquid metal, clean and reuse the plastic covering from the stock heat-conductive metal to prevent the aftermarket metal from flowing onto the motherboard when heated.
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![Loose heat-conductive metal](./img/heat-conductive-metal-loose.webp)
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![Heat-conductive metal application](./img/heat-conductive-metal-application.webp)
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_**Above:** Heat-conductive metal for the CPU (left) and the GPU (right), with plastic coverings._
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_**Below:** Heat-conductive metal application on the CPU chip and the GPU heatsink._
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![CPU heat-conductive metal application](./img/heat-conductive-metal-application-cpu.webp)
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![CPU heat-conductive metal application](./img/heat-conductive-metal-application-gpu.webp)
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10. Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the integrated GPU die (the smaller die on the CPU chip).
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![Thermal paste application](./img/thermal-paste-application.webp)
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11. Apply a line of thermal paste around the border of the CPU chip and the border of the GPU die.
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10. Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto each CPU die.
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11. Apply a line of thermal paste around the border of the GPU die.
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- The purpose of this border is to further prevent melted heat-conductive metal from flowing onto the motherboard during operation.
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- Keep the nozzle of the thermal paste tube pressed against the surface of the chip; dispense the thermal paste slowly while moving the nozzle.
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- Be careful not to apply too much thermal paste. Only a thin layer is needed.
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- Be careful not to apply too much thermal paste around the GPU. Only a thin layer is needed.
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![Thermal paste border](./img/thermal-paste-borders.webp)
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![Thermal paste application](./img/thermal-paste-application.webp)
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12. Carefully replace the heatsink.
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13. Tighten the fan and heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #12.
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The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.
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**Tools required:** Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, tweezers
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**Time estimate:** 10 minutes
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**Difficulty:** Medium <span style="color:orange;">●</span>
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**Warning:** The Oryx Pro 10's keyboard is held in by a strip of adhesive in addition to one of the bottom panel screws and the perimeter clips. The adhesive may be difficult to remove from the keyboard and/or case, and while the keyboard should still be functional if removed carefully, it is likely that permanent aesthetic damage will occur to the bottom side of the keyboard during removal. Removal is not recommended unless the keyboard is malfunctioning.
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**Tools required:** Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, tweezers, spudger tool (optional)
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**Time estimate:** 20 minutes
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**Difficulty:** Hard <span style="color:red;">●</span>
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### Steps to replace the keyboard:
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1. Follow the steps above to [remove the bottom cover](#removing-the-bottom-cover).
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2. Locate the keyboard adhesive strip access point near the right fan.
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- You can optionally remove the fan/heatsink assembly to make access easier, but this is not recommended unless you are also removing the thermal paste.
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![Keyboard adhesive access point](./img/keyboard-adhesive-access.webp)
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4. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
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5. Push a screwdriver into the adhesive slot until the keyboard pops out.
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- If available, a flathead spudger tool can also be used to provide more contact with the keyboard.
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![Keyboard push point](./img/keyboard-push-point.webp)
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10. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
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11. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
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12. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
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- The keyboard is primarily held in place by the perimeter clips and the keyboard screw (one of the bottom panel screws). The adhesive strip can optionally be removed or omitted to make future keyboard removal easier.
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13. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
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14. Turn the machine lid-side down again and press the adhesive strip back into its slot.
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- The keyboard is primarily held in place by the perimeter clips and the keyboard screw (one of the bottom panel screws). The adhesive strip can optionally be removed to make future keyboard removal easier.
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14. Turn the machine lid-side down again and press the adhesive strip back into its slot.

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