recommendations for jlc3dp printing material

[SergioMG97]

Hey there, I really love the designs and I was thinking of printing a bunch of them in my next order to jlc3dp. Do you have any recomendation regarding the printing tehcnology and material, I like the of finish of the examples you published. I appreaciate any help because I'm so lost haha

[braindefender]

Hi, I've never printed via JLC or any other third-party printing services.
I have both FDM and SLA printers at home, so I only used them.

So, there will be no direct recommendations. But I heard that white SLA on JLC is sun-sensitive and may gain yellow-orange tint over time.

[tpaktop77]

@SergioMG97 Hey. I printed my keycaps there with translucent 8001 resin. They do not finish specifically this one. For instance, if you decide to go with transparent, they will. Translucent is the only one I've tried.

[peterjc]

I ordered the choc saddle set with JLCPLC this week, SLA resin, LC Black resin, defaults otherwise - after review both files gave:

File Error

Our system detected the following errors in your files, any other problems will be notified by email.

1. Bad edges detected
2. Near bad edges detected
3. Planar holes detected
4. Multi-shells detected
5. Possible noise shells detected
6. < 0.8mm wall thickness detected

There might be risks of crack, damage, deformation, loss of details.Are you able to take the risks?

and:

Review Note:
1.Connected-design parts will requires more extra materials; more extra time in the post processing and package etc. So extra cost 0.1$/pcs will be charged. Also, the build time will add 1-2 more business days. For more details, please also visit our statements on the website below. Thanks ! https://jlc3dp.com/help/article/213-Connected-Parts-Printing-Guide

The price looks to have gone up by about $1 per set. Fingers crossed.

[thrly]

@peterjc What were the results? I've just made an order and got the same errors...

[peterjc]

Thanks for the reminder - my JLCPLC resin prints turned out nicely.

They did seem to run into a QC issue with the keycaps through (I could login to the website and check progress - and one bundle of keycaps was clearly packaged after everything else):

Thank you so much for ordering from JLCPCB, but we regret to tell you that your order XXX will be delayed due to some of the 3D-printing parts scrapped. It may take 2 more days to be redone/ re-manufactured for sufficient quantity for your order.

They could be removed from the choc switches much more easily than my MKB key caps (which I bought in the meantime).

Photos:

I’m currently using the MBK set, but will build a second keyboard… https://fediscience.org/@pjacock/114870433960368787

[thrly]

@peterjc thanks! Ahh interesting that they're easier to remove than MBKs (what I'm looking to replace), does that imply the fit is less secure? Wonder if that's a material or a design thing...

[peterjc]

I suspect the choc socket fit tightness could be down to design, printer conditions like calibration or temperature, or perhaps even the finishing if sanded too much. I don't know enough to judge here.

[MandarinoMcZumo]

I just received and mounted mine for a Hillside 46 with choc ambient twilight and they don't fit with the switch.
There just isn't enough friction for the keycap to hold if I flip the keyboard over, too bad because I really like them and would like to use them.
I ordered it with SLA (9600 resin) and sanding-general sanding surface finish.
Has anyone else had a similar problem?

[peterjc]

@MandarinoMcZumo that’s unfortunate. I would try a tiny strip of paper in the switch holes along side the keycap legs, or something like bluetack - or if you’re happy otherwise (and settled on the switch strength), maybe glue?

[fantaandcode]

I'd suggest using a little bit of Kapton tape. Adhere it to the keycap and it's easy to remove later too if need be.

[MandarinoMcZumo]

I thought about gluing it, but in the end I decided to use Kapton tape on the inserts, and now they fit perfectly :)
It took some time, but once you get the hang of it, it's not so bad.
The keycaps are something very different (and great), and I think they're worth trying.
Thanks for the help! @peterjc @fantaandcode

[daniel2887]

I've been printing these caps from JLCPCB for a while for a bunch of keyboards, in MJF and SLS, and once I ordered resin set from Etsy. (Huge, huge, huge kudos to the author!! Totally revolutionized my typing experience.)

I found MJF and SLS to be the most pleasant to type on. The slightly rough texture feels nice, and they're also easy to clean (a very slightly soapy, lukewarm water and soft toothbrush to scrub). I didn't like the resin set, felt a bit like running my finger on a blackboard.

I tried SLS to see how it looks in white. It looks really good, but gets dirty quickly...
My default now days is MFJ PA12-HP. I recommend black, because the natural gray option is non-uniform in shade, which gives it a dirty look out of the box.